Markus Brozio, Stephanie Zweig:
RESEARCH NETWORK FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A 3D-SEWING SYSTEM

Department of Computer Science in Mechanical Engineering (IMA) and Centre for Research and Development in Higher Education (ZLW), Aachen University of Technology (RWTH) ZLW/IMA, Dennewartstr. 27, 52068 Aachen, Germany

Preprint of a presentation held at the 7th IFAC Symposium on Automated Systems Based on Human Skill - Joint Design of Technology and Organisation, June 15-17, 2000, Aachen, Germany, Proceeding available from Elsevier B.V., Paperback, ISBN: 0-08-043254-9, 318 pages, publication date: 2000, Imprint: PERGAMON

0. Abstract

The scope of this report is a government sponsored research and development project concerning the automatic manufacturing of clothing. It consists of a network integrating production manufacturers, research institutes and one clothing manufacturer in Germany. Based on a reflection of the course of the project, network perspectives for the textile chain are presented. The focus of this paper is the necessity of close co-operation, which positively influences the economic perspectives in the German textile and clothing industry. One further essential aspect is to meet the client's needs.

1. Introduction

In the last decades the German textile and clothing industry has been confronted with a drop in orders and a growing pressure of cost (Gesamttextil, 1998). The result is a continuous decrease of employees and factories. A need for action, especially in clothing trade, has been stated, referring to the high wages and the comparatively low automation level, a strong division in labour, lacking industry-wide co-operation and insufficient flexibility. This demands a joint strategy for the development and placement of new products as well as an improvement in flexibility and quality. (Henning, 1991). The development has led to the R & D project "3D Sewing System" sponsored by the Federal Research Ministry.

2. The "3D-sewing system" network

2.1 Technical initial

The first three-dimensional (3D) sewing systems in the Federal Republic of Germany were developed into a marketable commodity in the early 1990's and it has been industrially used in the automobile industry, manufacturing car seats and head-rest covers. The system consists of several so called 3D moulds. These moulds, made from metal or plastic, represent the later volume of the product. The individual fabric parts that are to be stitched are semi-automatically adjusted to these mould. A fully automatic conveyor then moves the equipped mould to the sewing station. In order to operate three-dimensionally the sewing machines are mounted on conventional industrial robots. Another essential difference to the conventional 2D-sewing process is the relative movement of the sewing machine towards the fixed fabric pieces. The final operation is the automatic removal of the stitched textile cover. The 3D-sewing technology is extremely suitable for the manufacturing of size and form characteristic covers (e.g. head-rest covers for automobiles, car seat covers, skirt or coat trunks.).

From October 1995 to December 1999 further development of the 3D-sewing technology towards an integrated 3D-sewing system was carried out within the scope of the research project "Integrated 3D-Sewing System". The goal was the manufacturing of production systems for the automobile (car seats or head-rests) and clothing industry (skirts or coats). Since network systems are of greater importance to the clothing industry the following implementations are limited to this branch of industry. The demands stated towards the integrated 3D sewing system for the clothing industry were as follows:

2.2 Network construction

In order to convert this plan a national network of research institutions and industry has been established in Germany. The industry partners are production manufacturers in the clothing machine industry. In addition, two future users of the system have been integrated in the proceeding (Germany's largest clothing manufacturer and a car scat manufacturer). The regional centre has been set in Aachen, where three RWTH Aachen institutes, one independent research institute and two industry partners are based. Additional industry partners are from North Rhine-Westphalia, South Germany and the East German State of Thuringia. Each of the partners is a specialist in its field of work. Within the project, the HDZ/IMA contribute its' competencies in the field of sociotechnical systems and the man-machine-interface. A further object of research of the HDZ/IMA in particular was the network construction within the textile chain.

2.3 Network Processes

A significant observation concerning the course of the project was the frequent change of partners. It was caused by two insolvency proceedings and related business decisions. The system to be developed failed to match the current business goals of some of the partners. For some partners the deeper explanation probably concerned the economical uncertainty within the application of the 3D-sewing technology. Since classical investment calculations cannot give positive perspectives concerning the development of completely new technologies, it is necessary to use extended (economic) efficiency analysis instead. Their only deficiency is that they are not yet generally accepted.

2.4 Technical solutions

By the end of the project all the partners' individual tasks were completed and the technologies ready to operate. Its implementation, however, failed completely. Two reasons can be stated for the failed integration of the whole system:

Nevertheless all individual systems were demonstrated successful at the final presentation, among them a technically further developed 3D-sewing-coll (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1. The robot-guided stitching machine closes the skirt's side-seam on the mould

3. Results of project analysis

Conclusions for future projects can be drawn from the experience made within the "Integrated 3D-Sewing System" project. The most significant and overlapping aspect, for both the co-ordination and the individual partners, is to act process-orientated.

3.1 Effective and hindering facts of the network construction

The course of the project has clearly shown that joint success demands a time for preparation of at least one year. Within this time period the parties concerned are made acquainted with the technology and the project and also have the chance to get to know one another and build up an intimate relationship. The motives for this behaviour are based on various facts: The project partners must intensify and trust in the innovative ideas and aims of the inventor and visionary of the project. Cash benefits are in part a reason for participating within sponsored research projects. They can indirectly be of help when developing individual autonomous products.

The SMEs have mostly only little experience in cooperating with other businesses. The classical interfaces between the various specialists are often defined by standards such as the ISO 9000ff. Speaking for the plants, a direct first-hand cooperation is not necessary in this case.

Apart from meeting the partner at project meetings, the partner's attitude is of great importance in order to know with whom you are dealing with. Regional differences especially between East Germans and West Germans play a significant role within this context, even more so if international partners are involved. Especially in the beginning of a new project, project meetings mainly serve as opportunities to build personal contact and carry out struggles for the leading role and to allocate the parts. This process occurs in the scope of technical discussions, often giving little regard to the outcome.

The development is slow if without pressure from the outside. Important factors are pressure of time and economical circumstances. Pressure of time within sponsored projects occurs due to the temporary limitation of benefits, that can not be extended. Economical pressure also arises by the financing institution who wants to see the results of investments which are subject to public supervision. A final aspect is the direct economical pressure brought on the individual businesses by the market.

Other project experiences show that forced progress caused by the head of the project in the beginning of the project has negative influence on the further progress and can in extreme cases cause a complete project breakdown.

3.2 Tasks concerning the project co-ordination

The project co-ordination can actively support and therefore accelerate the slow starting process of complex network projects. The co-ordinator must always be one step ahead of the others (without neglecting the momentary proceedings!). The following measures have been successfully applied within the "Integrated 3D-Sewing System":

Scenarios were developed and brought into the discussion outcome. Approved modelling or simulation approaches of planned systems and proceedings are helpful for developing scenarios.

It helps to plan reflection from the point of an outsider or discussing the procedures with people outside the project, who are not familiar with the subject. Questions and problems overlooked or ignored by the project partners are common aspects of these discussions. These discussions must then be carefully integrated in the project internal consultations. A significant fact for a successful outcome is choosing the right time, not too soon (missing acceptance on the side of the project partners), and not too late (no new impulses). Especially economical aspects and perspectives concerning the developed system are able to be thoroughly discussed during the course of the project within the scope of an established working group, consisting of project partners and external specialists. Though it may initially not appear this way, these results support the project progress in later project phases.

4. Perspectives for future networks

4.1 Deeper integration of the parties concerned within the textile chain

It is apparent that the only future of clothing manufacturing in so-called high-wage countries is in the field of high-grade individual and higher priced clothing manufacturing. One important aspect for the manufacturing in Germany for example are the short delivery periods and accordingly short-term delivery of individually manufactured clothing. Close cooperation within the textile chain is required in this context, guaranteeing the delivery, quality and a maximum price-performance ratio of the required products.

4.2 Customer orientated clothing manufacturing

We are dealing with a network to establish the 3D-sewing manufacturing within the field of exclusive women's and men's clothing manufacturing. The first step is the establishment of a network between trade, industry and science. In order to derive improvements e.g. in the fields of communication and quality management, the existing problems within this value chain must be analysed with strong participation on the side of the parties concerned.

The already existing 3D-sewing technology must be improved in comparison to the network construction. By constructing a regional network the SMEs are strengthened to stabilise or extend their position on the global market. Close co-operation within the textile chain, starting with the fabric manufacturer, the clothing manufacturer and the retailer down to the customer, is an additional aim (e.g. a joint quality management can reduce the complicated and expensive returns).

5. Conclusions

The vision is to manufacture standard textile products (hat differ from mass products mainly in the material and details that require two-dimensional manufacturing. The customer can hereby obtain an individual garment and the retailer can provide a larger diversion of variety by reduced storage. For Europe this vision is technically possible to realise but it will take much longer than expected to make it work under the present conditions of how business is being run.

6. References

Brozio, M.: Anwendung des Dualen Entwurfs auf die Entwicklung eines robotergesteuerten 3D-Nähsystems. Dissertation 2001, Aachener Reihe Mensch und Technik, Band 35, Wissenschaftsverlag Mainz, Aachen (out of print, now available for free at www.brozio.eu)

Henning, K. (Ed.) Forschungsbericht. Untersuchung zum Forschungs- und Entwicklungsbedarf in der Textilindustrie im Rahmen des Programms "Arbeit und Technik" unter besonderer Berücksichtigung der Situation in den 5 neuen Bundesländern". Aachen 1991

Henning, K.; Hees, F.; Brozio, M.: Beurteilung des Gesamtprozesses unter technischen, wirtschaftlichen und sozialen Aspekten. Beitrag zum Abschlußbericht des Verbundvorhabens Integriertes 3D-Nähsystem. In preparation for 2000

Gesamttextil.: Jahrbuch der Textilindustrie 1997/1998. Textil Service Verlags- und Zertifizierungsstelle. Eschborn 1998

Wulfhorst, B.: Zusammenarbeit zwischen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie, Textilmaschinenbau, Forschung und Lehre. In: DWI-Reports 1997. Schriftenreihe des deutschen Wollforschungsinstituts an der RWTH Aachen e.V. Aachen 1997. pp. 85-99